PRADA M SS 2013
The design of the set for Prada fashion shows is an intuitive and organic process. It starts with a large number of concept proposals, which are guided by the development of the collection. It is the continuous interplay of the development of the collection and proposals for the set.
This time, the starting point was the space itself. The shows have been held in this place for years. After analysing previous designs, I have found that the space is always recognisable as the same. The rectangular shape and the row of columns that runs through the middle are very determinative. In this design the shape and perception of the room has been adjusted.
'Down a hill they went - Miuccia Prada’s spring/summer 2013 menswear models were walking around a vast, industrial space like they owned a couple of galleries each, or at least should permanently reside in one. The carefully planned chiaroscuros, contrasting shadow and light, created the kind of atmosphere that performance artists would die to exhibit in. Male and female models appeared side by side. They moved effortlessly through our conceptions of gender. It was about ageless, genderless, trendless concepts.' Anzej Dezan -
PRADA W SS 2013
'"Dream is forbidden, nostalgia is forbidden, to be too sweet is not good. Everything we used to feel historically, now you can't enjoy. The clothes are the expression of this impossible dream." The flowers, the pervasive Japonisme—here we had Prada embracing traditional tropes of femininity and womanhood, a geisha's servitude, even. The collection moved from dark to light. By the end, Prada was manipulating, folding, and wrapping duchesse satin in palest pink and green to evoke the ritual of kimono dressing. (Both the runway and the columns in the show space were decadently lined with that satin.) Prada explained that the Japanese element came late in the design process. "I wanted it to be tough and serious," she said.' -Nicole Phelp on
Partner in charge: Rem Koolhaas
Associate in charge: Ippolito Pestellini Laparelli
Team: Boudewien van den Berg, Paul Cournet,
Miguel Taborda, Courtney Song